I strongly recommend a trip to Armenia, now is a great time to go. Here are a few things I noticed:
1. The country remains intellectual. The book fair is well attended. The classical music season is excellent, with good concerts multiple times a week, and the theatre scene, in both Armenian and Russian, is active. The country has only a little more than three million people, yet they have won gold medal in the chess Olympiad three times in recent memory. You could say the country has maintained the (few) strengths of the former Soviet Union, and is arguably the only place that has. It feels more like the former Soviet Union than Russia does.
2. The National Gallery has excellent Soviet and Russian paintings, while their Armenian collection is definitive. The Medieval Manuscripts museum is first-rate. Unfortunately, neither does anything to put images online, but all the more reason to go.
3. Armenian society is nearly 100% white and 100% Christian, as most of the immigrants (is that the right word here?) are Russian. Crime is close to zero, and the cars stop when you try to cross the street. Being a loyal northern Virginian, that mix is not “my thing.” But if that is what you wish to experience, if only briefly, Armenia is the place that serves it up without apology. Even secular Armenians have great respect for the national Apostolic church, as they view it as a guardian of Armenian independence.
4. The old monasteries are A level sights, and many of them are mere day trips from Yerevan, the capital. Most of the tourists you see at these are Russians, not Westerners. You also will see some Iranian tourists.
5. Yerevan is not great for old buildings, but the city is very walkable and pleasant and lively. I believe the winters are brutal, but September there is wonderful, every day was perfect weather.
5b. In Armenia you will see how their brutalism in fact comes from their earlier religious architectural traditions, and how the newer churches embody modern brutalist ideas as well. I found this very interesting.
6. I have a separate piece coming out on food in Armenia, for now I will just say it is excellent and novel as well.
7. Armenia is not dirt cheap, but it is much cheaper than most of Europe and so can be considered a bargain in relative terms.
8. Almost everyone in Yerevan speaks good Russian. The influence of Russia is embedded in virtually every institution, people like Russia, Russia supplies most of their energy, and is the number one trading partner. Russian troops protect them from Turkey. A Russian does not even need a passport to enter and live in Armenia. Russia is a permanent fixture in Armenian life, and most people do not seem to mind that. They are very disappointed that Putin did not protect them more in the war with Azerbaijan, but that is their major source of discontent, not that Russia and Putin are evil.
9. Armenia has close relations with Iran, and Armenians do not seem to hate Iran. They regard the country as a partial counterweight to Turkey, and for that matter Russia. People in Armenia are very conscious of the x-risk represented by Turkey. They also will speak to you about history in great detail, and they are very wrapped up in their past history. They are very familiar with maps.
10. You can see Mount Ararat, supposed resting place of Noah’s Ark, from the outskirts of Yerevan. It is beautiful. It remains on the Armenian currency, and in the hearts of Armenians, yet it is now part of Turkey and is very likely to remain so. Armenians refer to that part of Turkey as “Western Armenia.”
11. Here is someone else’s exaggerated take on the place, no it will not be the next Poland.
I would put it this way. At any point in time, there are a few parts of the world that are perfect for visiting and viewing. They should be comfortable, but still exotic and not overtouristed. Not dangerous, and not too full of hassles, yet replete with challenging and stimulating experiences. Yunnan in China is one such place. Currently, aAzerbaijan, Georgia, and Armenia all fit this designation. They all have complex histories, and are not always in great shape, so now is the time to go. They will never get better to visit, and right now they are pretty close to perfect as destinations. See what you can, while you can.
#Armenia #notes #Marginal #REVOLUTION