The shops are heaving with pumpkins and squash, and though there are so many different varieties to choose from, most of them are interchangeable. My favourites are kabocha, crown prince and delicata, for their deeply nutty flavour and creamy texture, plus they hold their shape well when roasted or braised. And if you’re carving a pumpkin for Halloween over the coming weeks, don’t waste the flesh: chop it up and throw into a risotto. It’s hard to imagine that such deliciousness could come from such a ghoulish grimace.

Pumpkin and miso congee with chilli oil (pictured above)

Congee is a favourite comfort food that is eaten across Asia, often for breakfast. This version isn’t particularly traditional, but it makes the most of pumpkin season. I love this with a drizzle of chilli oil as a contrast to the delicata’s natural sweetness.

Prep 15 min
Cook 50 min
Serves 6

600g delicata pumpkin, peeled and chopped into bite-size chunks, plus 6 wedges
3 tbsp avocado oil, or neutral oil
Sea salt and black pepper
1 heaped tbsp white miso
2 garlic cloves, peeled and finely chopped
1 tbsp crushed ginger
200g short-grain white rice
1 piece kombu
1 bunch spring onions, trimmed and sliced on the diagonal

For the garnish
3 tbsp toasted pumpkin seeds
A few drops of sesame oil
Chilli oil

Heat the oven to 200C (180C fan)/390F/gas 6. Lay out the pumpkin on a baking sheet, drizzle over one tablespoon of oil and season. Roast for 30-40 minutes, until very soft and caramelised, then remove and leave to cool. Set aside the squash wedges, then puree the remaining chunks in a food processor with a splash of water.

In a large saucepan, heat the remaining oil on a medium heat, add the miso and cook, stirring, until lightly caramelised. Add the garlic and ginger, and stir until fragrant.

Add the rice, kombu and 1.8 litres of water and bring to a boil on medium-high heat. Partially cover, turn down the heat to a low simmer and cook, stirring occasionally, for 25-30 minutes, until the liquid has reduced and the rice is plump and has turned into a porridge. Stir in the pumpkin puree and half the sliced spring onions.

Divide the congee between six bowls and top each portion with a wedge of roast squash. Garnish with the remaining spring onions, then finish with toasted pumpkin seeds, a drizzle of sesame oil and your favourite chilli oil.

Chicken with kabocha squash and sage

This makes for a wonderful alternative autumnal Sunday roast, with minimal washing-up because it’s all cooked in one pan.

Prep 10 min
Cook 1 hr 20 min
Serves 4

Sea salt and black pepper
1 whole chicken (about 1½kg)
1 whole garlic bulb, cut in half horizontally
1 unwaxed lemon, halved
1 bunch sage
2 bay leaves
2 tbsp olive oil
½ tsp dried chilli flakes
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 small kabocha squash (about 750g), unpeeled and cut into wedges
150ml dry white wine
800ml chicken stock
50ml double cream

Season the chicken generously inside and out, then stuff the cavity with one of the garlic halves, both lemon halves, half the sage and the bay leaves.

Put the oil in a large, deep casserole over a medium heat and, once it’s hot, brown the chicken all over – take your time to do this properly, because it really makes a difference to the overall taste. Once browned, set aside the chicken for the time being.

In the oil left over from browning the chicken, fry the remaining garlic and sage with the chilli and cinnamon, then, once the mix is smelling fragrant, stir in the squash wedges to coat them in the aromatic oil. Cook for two minutes, then pour in the wine and leave to bubble away until reduced by half.

Push the squash to the sides of the pan, then nestle the chicken in the middle. Pour in the stock, cover and leave to cook on a gentle heat for 50 minutes to an hour. Once cooked, stir in the cream, season if need be, and serve.

Fudgy pumpkin pie cookies

No tricks, just treats. These are perfect for a little Halloween indulgence.

Prep 10 min
Chill 40 min
Cook 1 hr, plus cooling
Makes About 20

For the pumpkin puree
200g red kuri or kabocha squash, halved, deseeded, peeled and cut into 2cm cubes
50g granulated sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp ground ginger
A pinch of ground cloves
A good grating of nutmeg

For the cookies
225g plain flour
1 tsp cinnamon
½ tsp ground ginger
A pinch of cloves
A good grating of nutmeg
½ tsp baking powder
½ tsp bicarbonate of soda
Salt
225g light brown sugar
175g unsalted butter
2 egg yolks
1 tsp vanilla extract

Start by making the pumpkin puree. Put the pumpkin in a microwave-safe container and microwave on high for five minutes. Remove, toss, then microwave on high again for another five minutes. Keep repeating this process until the pumpkin is soft and mashable – the timing will depend on your microwave, but mine took 15 minutes. Once soft, puree in a food processor (or mash well with a fork) until smooth, then leave to cool.

In a small bowl, mix the sugar and spices. In medium bowl, mix the flour, spices, baking powder, bicarb and half a teaspoon of salt. In a stand mixer, cream the brown sugar and butter until light and fluffy. Add the egg yolks and vanilla, whisk again until pale and fluffy, then stir in the pumpkin puree until well combined. Fold in the dry ingredients, then chill in the fridge for 40 minutes, until firm.

Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan)/350F/gas 4 and line two baking sheets with greaseproof paper. Scoop out two tablespoons of the cookie mixture and roll them into loose balls. Roll these in the spiced sugar mix and place on the baking sheets spaced well apart. Repeat with the remaining cookie mix, then bake for 12 minutes, until golden brown.

Remove and leave to cool on the baking sheet for five minutes, then transfer to a rack to cool completely.